The Nautilus, one of the most recognizable shapes in horology and one of the most popular fake watches in the world, represents a more modern side of Patek Philippe. The first Nautilus, the stainless ref. 3700, took its styling cues from a ship’s porthole, bending to company owner Philippe Stern’s passion for sailing.
The 42mm case was a special octagonal shape, with convex flanks curving outwards and a hinged front giving the watch ‘ears’ on either side of its case. The dial also had seafaring overtones, the horizontal striping reminiscent of a yacht’s teak decking. Later references included smaller models which took the size down to 37mm and a ladies quartz version was also introduced. Complications were added, such as moon phase and power reserve indicators, and precious metals joined the lineup.
Not a model name, but rather a trademark complication that makes its way onto several pieces, Patek was the creator of the very first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925. Today, there are more than two dozen different examples in the catalog that feature the complication, mainly in the brand’s Grand Complications series, together with a white gold Nautilus, the ref. 5740/1G-001. In case you were wondering, a perpetual calendar is one step above an annual calendar in that it not only compensates for the different number of days in a month but also automatically adjusts for leap years as well. The next time a perpetual calendar needs to be manually corrected is in the year 2100.
Patek Philippe is considered to be the father of the complication and their replica watches with the feature make up some of the surest investment targets out there. They are by no means cheap, which is to be expected given the incredible amount of work required to design and execute each action. Prices for a contemporary model start at around $88,000 for the ref. 5320G, a beautiful Art Deco-inspired throwback with three-tier lugs and lacquered cream dial.
Those are just a few recommendations for budding Patek collectors. There’s no doubt that to join those ranks you are going to need some serious financial means, but just like all things, it is a case of you getting out what you put in. There are few certainties in horology, but a replica Patek Philippe watch holding its value or appreciating over time is about as close as it gets.
To paraphrase Patek Philippe’s famous advertising campaign: “you never really owned Patek Philippe, you just held it for the next generation…Or at least keep it until it’s worth a lot of money.”
