If you’re fairly new to Rolex, chances are you haven’t heard Turn-O-Graph. Like many Rolex icons, the Turn-O-Graph made its debut in the 1950s-1953, the same year that both the Explorer and Submariner were released.
Contrary to what many believe, the Turn-O-Graph was the first replica Rolex serialized product with a rotatable bezel. This groundbreaking element was later applied to the company’s diving and travel watches.
The following year, it received a major redesign to distinguish it from the hugely popular Diver. It dropped the Turn-O-Graph name, was incorporated into the Datejust collection, had a Cyclops-covered window at three o’clock, and changed the bezel to embossed metal rather than engraved aluminum.
As Rolex often does, the main reason for releasing a new iteration of the watch is to introduce a new movement, while most of the design and aesthetic details remain unchanged. The watch was also released with a few changes, with the ref. 16263 is one of the most popular choices with its typical two-tone visuals.
As for the ref. 16263, the case is made of stainless steel, but the bezel, winding crown, and central bracelet links are forged from gold, giving us a very characteristic combination of tones that copy Rolex calls Rolesor.
This combination of metals was first used in the Datejust collection, where many of the brand’s experiments were carried out, and has since been used extensively throughout the catalog.
The bezel is also particularly distinctive because it has been given the so-called engine-turned treatment. Alternatively, Rolex has discontinued this practice. The engraved bezel is surrounded by a series of decorative grooves, with markers and numerals every five and ten minutes on the Turn-O-Graph.
The Turn-O-Graph ref. 1626X succeeds the very short-lived ref. 1625X series and originated in 1977 to introduce a new movement.
This engine was the legendary Cal. 3135, a movement that would become the longest-serving and most widely used of all modern fake Rolex mechanisms. Incredibly, it is still powering the current fleet of Submariners some 30 years after its introduction.
Since the Turn-O-Graph occupies a niche in the Datejust collection, it was not issued with the exhaustive selection of different dial colors that the regular collection has.
Strangely enough, only the first and last generation models have Turn-O-Graph on their dials. All models in between, including ref. 16263 included omitting this lettering in favor of just Datejust, and the text “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” at the bottom.
Finally, the ref. 1626XX collection is the introduction of the sapphire crystal, replacing the previous acrylic overlay.
The ref. 16263 is a relatively unusual and obscure watch. Even so, it has an important place in the Rolex story; arguably, it was one of the first collections made by the brand to be used for a specific purpose, not just to tell time.
Its modest and unassuming reputation makes it an attractive find for vintage enthusiasts and those looking for something unusual.
